CTS-V Track Preparation checklist

This is a collective combination of everyone’s input from cadillacforums.com and the great site cadillacfaq.com. Some of you who have helped here…
Contributors: JJKJ, Dreamin, RacerVX, tweeter81, Feffman, Seattle CTS-V, rgd, V-Love, calicadi, HushH, VelodromeRacer, V-ape, 50 4 Ever, Reed CTS-V, …

FOR YOUR CAR (racing):

Wheels and Tires:
  • Wheels and rims in good working order (no tire patches, have good tread left, not down to wear bars, should not rub fenders) Racing tires and rims are an added plus, but not necessary.
  • Remove center caps (or anything that could fall off tires, like press-on spinners : )
  • Start with tire pressure 32 in front, 33 in back to prevent tire roll over. Do not go lower on tire pressure due to roll over.

    Suspension:
  • Make sure all "Nuts & Bolts" are tightened. (see Nuts & Bolts section below for torque settings)
  • If anything is in question, have a mechanic check it out (looking for loose suspension pick up points, worn suspension bushings, bad bearings, excessive play in the shock or strut mounts, trailing arms, roll bars or other suspension pieces)

    Steering:
  • Replace stock power steering cooler with better one or replace with high temp fluid (below)
  • Should easily turn from lock to lock and tires should not rub

    Fluids:

    Coolant
  • Flush and replace coolant before running on track (help prevent engine overheating). Dexcool recommended

    Transmission Oil
  • Checked to see if replacement needed. Royal Purple Synthetic, Redline D4 ATF (for T56), or Mobil 1 ATF recommended

    Differential Oil
  • Checked to see if replacement needed. Replace with Royal Purple Synthetic. Keeps diff quieter and already has the friction modifier additive that the OEM fluid Cadillac uses. Or Mobil 1 75w-90LS.

    Brake Fluid
  • Brake fluid should be flushed, bled, and replaced with hi-temp fluid before running at the track.
  • No cracks or leaks in rubber brake lines and tight connections checked. Braided steel brake lines are not necessary, but can help.
  • Motul 600 or Performance Friction Z-Rated DOT 3recommended *** Watch out for air bleeders that lock air in the lines, can reduce brake efficiency by 2/3s!! Self bleeder valves are good (replaces the OEM bleeder valves)
  • A cool off lap before stopping will go a long way to prevent heat soak/boiling

    Power Steering Fluid
  • A must to replace before track. Replace with Red Line Synthetic BP@437 degrees, Royal Purple Synthetic BP@650 degrees
  • Replace power steering cooler recommended .

    Clutch Fluid
  • Checked to see if replacement needed. Castrol LMA recommended.

    Engine Oil
  • Needs changed before running at the track. Mobile 1 5w30 for racing, 10w30 for normal driving. (keeps overheating down)

    Overall Inspection

    Engine:
  • No leaks, checked out by mechanic or everything tighted a week before racing.
  • Make sure battery is secured and battery posts are covered (keeps from battery arcing in case of touching metal).
  • oils and fluids checked and/or replaced (see above)

    Brakes:
  • Brake pads at 50% or above. Track or racing spec pads recommended (for heat), but not necessary (Carbotech, Hawk, Endless)
  • Brake lights need to work

    Seat Belts:
  • Working properly. Racing harness not necessary, but is an added plus. (http://www.cg-lock.com/ - will add racing belt tightness to regular seat belts)

    Windows:
  • Clean windows inside and out (i.e. wash the car dingleberry)

    Extra Items:
  • Make sure all loose objects are taken out of car. (floor mats, maps, garage door openers, radar detectors, CDs, change in change holder etc.) A old gym bag or bin can hold all this while you are on track.
  • Lock glove box or remove contents (can fly open)
  • Video camera and camera mount (to actually learn and get better, stickypod.com)
  • Colored tape at 12 o'clock on the steering wheel so you know where "wheels straight"
  • Keep sunroof closed (adds a little structural integrity to roof frame)
  • Put your seat as low as possible if you want (lowers center of gravity)
  • Turn off radio, roll your window down, pay attention to the flags
  • Spare tire or full spare if you do blow a tire

    FOR YOUR CAR (maintenance):

  • Take a bin or gym bag to store all car and personal items
  • Extra fluids (engine oil, brake fluid, power steering fluid, coolant)
  • A tire gauge
  • Take a toolbox with
  • Basic tools for “Nuts & Bolts” (section below)
  • A good torque wrench
  • Window cleaner
  • Paper towels
  • Duct tape (to cover glass light covers on front of car, broken glass on track - bad)
  • Tire blocks (can't use e-brake after race, will warp rotors)
  • Small air compressor (i.e. 5-8 gallon) if you have one, to air up/level out tire pressure)
  • Rhino ramps (for under car inspection after races or if something brakes)

    FOR YOU (racing):

  • SA2000+ or motorcycle helmet (m rated helmets do not have fire resistant, nomex)
  • cotton pants and long sleeve cotton shirt. Fire resistant suits starting at $100.
  • closed toe, rubber soled shoes..no dress shoes or running shoes. Pumas, etc. are good or racing shoes (http://www.saferacer.com/ompshoes.html)

    FOR YOU (when not racing):

  • prepare for the weather
  • Bring a cooler with drinks (gatorade, water) and food for the day/night (no alcohol, thats comes after track time at the nearest bar)
  • Fold out chair(s)
  • Change of clothes for after track day (bar wear)
  • Sunblock (if needed) and sunglasses, lip protections
  • pop up tent with tie-downs

    Reminders

    WEEK BEFORE, REMEMBER TO:
  • clean windows (soapy water for tint, windex for glass, might as well Rain-x at this point).

    DAY BEFORE, REMEMBER TO:
  • get some sleep, you'll need it
  • Run through this checklist (do all the stuff you forgot, like remove center wheel caps to throw in bin or gym bag)

    DAY OF REMEMBER TO:
  • set tire pressures and check pressures regularly through track day (and after track time). Can blow a tire.
  • fill up car 3/4 with high octane gas, keep at least a 1/4 tank or you will starve the engine (high G turns)
  • remember what the flags mean ( )
  • bring tip money in case it could be useful (instructors, mechanics, tow truck service, bartenders, strippers, police....)

    DURING THE DAY REMEMBER TO:
  • "know your role" Be humble and leave pride at the front gates. Truly know what class you are in (beginner, intermediate, etc.) Speed is for idiots... controlled speed is the only respectable currency on the track.
  • Have fun! I know...should be self apparent, but folks sometimes get so focused that they forget the fun.
  • Make some friends
  • Consistently drink fluids and eat something
  • Check car before and after runs

    AFTER TRACK RUNS REMEMBER TO:
  • Let your car idle for a few minutes with the hood open and take the cool-down lap. (Engine can overheat unless you allow the car to cool itself down)
  • Do not put on E-brake or parking brake, use tire blocks. Can warp rotors.
  • Check and reset tire pressures
  • Check for leaks under and around the engine

    Nuts and Bolts: (print this out and put in toolbox)

    ATTACHMENT – TORQUE (Ft/lbs) - SIZE
  • WHEEL LUG NUTS – 100 – ¾”
  • FRONT STRUT TOWER - 83
  • FRONT LOWER SHOCK BOLTS – 18 - 13 mm
  • FRONT TOP SHOCK NUT - 18
  • FRONT STEERING KNUCKLE PINCH BOLT – 44 - 18mm
  • REAR LOWER SHOCK BOLT – 111 - 21mm
  • REAR UPPER SHOCK NUT – 18
  • SWAYBAR ENDLINKS – 37 - 15mm
  • FRONT DIFFERENTIAL CRADLE BOLT – 195 – 24mm
  • REAR DIFFERENTIAL CRADLE BOLT – 141 - 21mm
  • DIFFERENTIAL SUPPORT MOUNTING BOLTS – 129 – 21mm
  • CORSA EXHAUST CLAMPS – 45
  • CORSA EXHAUST FLANGE NUT - 22
  • HOTCHKIS SWAYBAR BRACKETS – 44 - 15mm/16mm*



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